The History of Dry Cleaning: From Ancient Practices to Modern Innovation

Dry cleaning has become a routine service in today’s world, offering a solution for cleaning delicate fabrics and garments that cannot be washed with water. However, the origins of dry cleaning stretch back centuries and reflect the evolution of chemistry, industry, and fashion. This article explores the fascinating history of dry cleaning, from ancient cleaning methods to the development of modern technologies that have revolutionized the way we care for clothes.

Early Beginnings: Ancient Cleaning Methods

The concept of dry cleaning, though not known by that name, has its roots in ancient civilizations. In Roman times, cleaners known as fullers used a variety of substances to clean clothes, including ammonia, lye, and a type of clay called fuller’s earth. Fullers would agitate and rub the garments, which were often made of wool or linen, to remove dirt and grease without the use of water.

These early techniques were primitive, but they laid the foundation for the later development of dry cleaning methods. However, it wasn’t until the 19th century that the dry cleaning process as we know it began to take shape, spurred by advances in chemistry and industrialization.

The Accidental Discovery: The Birth of Modern Dry Cleaning

The modern dry cleaning industry owes its origins to a French dye-works owner, Jean-Baptiste Jolly, who in the 19th century made a serendipitous discovery. According to legend, in the 1850s, one of Jolly’s maids accidentally spilled kerosene from a lamp onto a dirty tablecloth. To Jolly’s surprise, the kerosene not only removed the stain but left the fabric cleaner than before.

This incident led Jolly to experiment further with the use of solvents—substances that could dissolve grease and oil stains without the use of water. He began offering a new service called “nettoyage à sec”, or dry cleaning, and opened the first dry cleaning business in Paris. This marked the birth of the modern dry cleaning process, where clothes were cleaned in a liquid solvent that did not involve water.

The Early Days: Use of Petroleum-Based Solvents

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, dry cleaning relied on petroleum-based solvents such as kerosene, gasoline, and benzene. These solvents were effective in removing oils and greases from fabrics but came with serious drawbacks, most notably flammability. Fires and explosions were common hazards in early dry cleaning operations, and safety concerns soon prompted a search for safer alternatives.

Despite these risks, dry cleaning grew in popularity during this period, particularly among the middle and upper classes who could afford the service. As fashion became more intricate, with delicate fabrics such as silk, satin, and velvet becoming widespread, the need for a cleaning method that wouldn’t damage these materials increased.

The Move to Safer Solvents: Stoddard Solvent and Carbon Tetrachloride

By the 1920s, the industry began to move away from highly flammable petroleum-based solvents. Stoddard solvent, a type of mineral spirit that was less volatile than gasoline, became widely used. Around the same time, carbon tetrachloride emerged as another popular dry cleaning solvent. Both of these alternatives were less flammable than their predecessors, making dry cleaning operations safer, but they had their own limitations.

Carbon tetrachloride, while effective at removing stains, was later found to be highly toxic and carcinogenic, leading to health concerns for workers and environmental risks. This prompted yet another search for improved solvents that would provide effective cleaning without the associated health hazards.

The Rise of Perchloroethylene (Perc): Mid-20th Century

In the 1930s and 1940s, perchloroethylene, commonly known as perc, was introduced to the dry cleaning industry. Perc is a chlorinated solvent that quickly became the dominant chemical used for dry cleaning due to its superior cleaning power, non-flammability, and ability to be recycled within the cleaning process.

Perc could dissolve grease, oil, and dirt from fabrics without harming most fibers or dyes, making it ideal for delicate garments. Its effectiveness and relative safety from fire risks revolutionized the dry cleaning industry and established it as the industry standard for many decades.

Throughout the mid-20th century, dry cleaning plants sprang up across cities and towns, making the service more accessible to a broader population. The convenience of being able to clean fragile fabrics without risking water damage fueled the growth of the industry, which became an integral part of modern life, particularly for professionals needing to maintain suits and formal wear.

Environmental and Health Concerns: The Search for Green Alternatives

While perc became the dominant solvent for dry cleaning, concerns about its environmental and health impacts began to emerge. Perc is classified as a hazardous air pollutant by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) due to its potential to contaminate air, water, and soil. Long-term exposure to perc has been linked to serious health risks, including cancer, liver damage, and respiratory problems, particularly for workers in the dry cleaning industry.

As public awareness of these issues grew, the industry began to search for more eco-friendly alternatives to perc. In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, several new dry cleaning methods were developed:

• Hydrocarbon Solvents: Similar to Stoddard solvent but with lower toxicity and flammability, hydrocarbon solvents were marketed as safer alternatives to perc, though they are still derived from petroleum.
• Silicone-Based Solvents: GreenEarth, a silicone-based solvent, was introduced in the late 1990s as an environmentally safer alternative. Made from liquid silicone, GreenEarth breaks down into sand, water, and carbon dioxide, making it less harmful to the environment.
• CO2 Cleaning: Liquid carbon dioxide (CO2) cleaning uses pressurized CO2 as a solvent. This method is considered one of the most environmentally friendly options, as it uses recycled CO2 and doesn’t produce harmful byproducts.
• Wet Cleaning: Despite its name, wet cleaning is a modern method that uses water in combination with biodegradable detergents and specialized equipment to clean delicate fabrics traditionally dry cleaned. This method eliminates the need for chemical solvents altogether and is seen as a sustainable alternative.

The Future of Dry Cleaning: Technology and Sustainability

As environmental regulations become stricter and consumers become more conscious of eco-friendly practices, the dry cleaning industry is continuing to evolve. The push toward greener technologies is reshaping the future of the industry, with many businesses adopting alternative methods that reduce harmful emissions and protect worker health.

Advances in cleaning technologies, including automated systems, more efficient recycling of solvents, and the use of biodegradable cleaning agents, are improving both the effectiveness and safety of dry cleaning. Additionally, smart textile technologies—fabrics that are more resistant to stains and require less frequent cleaning—are likely to impact the industry in the coming years.

Conclusion

The history of dry cleaning is a testament to human ingenuity in addressing the challenges of keeping clothes clean while preserving delicate fabrics. From the ancient practices of the Romans to the discovery of solvents like kerosene and the development of modern eco-friendly alternatives, dry cleaning has continuously evolved to meet the needs of society.

While traditional methods have raised concerns about health and environmental safety, the industry is now on the cusp of a new era, with sustainable and innovative cleaning techniques paving the way for a greener future. The next time you drop off your suit or dress at the dry cleaner, you can appreciate the centuries of innovation that make it possible to keep our clothes fresh and clean without ever getting them wet.